KANGA - THE TALKING CLOTHS
12 December 2024 - 12 May 2025
Exhibition Author:
Aleksandra Prodanović Bojović, Senior Curator
About the exhibition:
The new thematic exhibition dedicated to colourful industrial textiles from East Africa was opened to public viewing on 12 December 2024. The exhibition was officially opened by Dr. Rade Pejović, the Head of the Textile Department at the Faculty of Applied Arts in Belgrade. The origin of these textiles, which are typical for women's clothing in Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda, is linked to the rise of the world textile industry in the 19th century. As symbols of modernity these cloths played an important role in the emancipation of slaves on the Swahili Coast. Today, they have multiple applications in the "female" domain, and at the same time represent a metonymic sign of the culture of East Africa - the Swahili coast.
The exhibition, authored by senior curator Aleksandra Prodanović Bojović, explores the various meanings that these cloths contain, based on their textuality - printed Swahili proverbs, and on the symbolism of colours and pictorial motifs. The communicational aspect of the kangas opened a space for Swahili women to negotiate their social position in a "culture of silence", and during the 20th century they were transformed into a state/political propaganda tool on a national level, as well as a popular advertising medium aimed at a foreign audience. Becoming visually recognizable symbols of Swahili culture thanks to mass production, they are an inspiration to fashion designers and a starting point for contemporary explorations of identity by African artists.
Kanga cloth with inscription "Eat the grapes and give answers".
MAA collection, inv. no. P2212. Photo by Vladimir Popović.
Kanga cloth with inscription "You mind my business, when are you going to talk about your business?".
MAA collection, inv. no. P2201. Photo by Vladimir Popović.
The display features kanga cloths from Kenya, Tanzania, and the South African Republic, along with several pieces of clothing by Tanzanian fashion designers, made from kangas or inspired by them. The items were acquired as part of research carried out by the Museum's Textile Collection curator in 2021 and research trip to Tanzania in 2024. The purchase of part of the cloths (2021) was funded by the Headley Trust from Great Britain. The research visit to Tanzania was made possible by the DISKO TRAVEL agency from Belgrade. Support in cooperation with Tanzanian experts and the Museums of Zanzibar was provided by the Minister of Foreign Affairs of Tanzania, Muhammad Tabit Kombo.
The exhibition is accompanied by a thirteen-minute documentary film “The Kanga Talks” which was created as a result of the author’s research stay in Tanzania (in Stone Town and Dar es Salaam) in September and October 2024. It is based on interviews that were conducted with artists, kanga collectors and connoisseurs, who helped to shed light on the cultural meanings and everyday applications of the kanga cloths today.
Kanga cloth with a congratulatory message to the new president of Tanzania, Samia Suluhu Hassan.
MAA collection, inv. no. P2036. Photo by Vladimir Popović.
Kanga cloth with the message "When two love each other, enemies cannot harm them".
MAA collection, inv. no. P2048. Photo by Vladimir Popović.
Kanga cloth with the message "You can stare at me, but you don't know what I have."
MAA collection, inv. no. P2201. Photo by Vladimir Popović.
Photos from the exhibition opening:
Exhibition and catalogue supported by:
